Hello, I’m Sondra!
Solo Female Traveler. Part-time Model. Your Internet Bestie.
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Exploring Rome Beyond the Tiber: Trastevere & Hidden Gems You’ll Love

If you’ve already checked off the Colosseum and tossed your coin into the Trevi Fountain, it’s time to experience a different side of Rome—one that feels more local, more soulful, and honestly… more you.
Welcome to the other side of the Tiber River—where cobblestone streets, ivy-covered buildings, and authentic Roman life await.
This guide is your go-to for exploring Trastevere, plus a few lesser-known neighborhoods that are rich in culture, safe, and perfect for curious travelers.
Whether you’re solo, plus-sized, or just craving a deeper connection to the city, this is where Rome really opens up.
Why Explore “the Other Side” of Rome?
Crossing the Tiber feels like stepping into a different rhythm.
Here, you’ll find:
- Fewer crowds (yes, really)
- More local restaurants
- Slower, more intentional travel experiences
- A deeper sense of Roman culture
It’s still lively—but less overwhelming than the historic center.
Trastevere: Rome’s Most Charming Neighborhood
What Makes Trastevere Special?
Trastevere is effortlessly beautiful…think:
- Golden light reflecting on pastel buildings
- Laundry hanging between windows
- Street musicians echoing through narrow alleys
It’s romantic, a little chaotic, and full of life.
Must-See Spots in Trastevere
Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere
One of the oldest churches in Rome, known for its stunning mosaics.
Tip: Visit in the morning or late evening for a quieter experience.
Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere
The heart of the neighborhood.
Grab a seat by the fountain and soak it all in. This is peak people-watching territory.
Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo)
A short uphill walk that rewards you with one of the best panoramic views in Rome.
Accessibility note:
The hill is steep, so consider a taxi or bus if needed. The view is absolutely worth it.
Where to Eat in Trastevere
This is food heaven.
Look for:
- Handmade pasta
- Seasonal Roman dishes
- Small, family-owned trattorias
Highly recommend Trattoria Da Enzo for Roman classics like fried artichokes (carciofi), Cacio e Pepe and Carbonara! It can be really busy, but they turn tables fast and the food is affordable and *chefs kiss.*
Inclusive tip:
Many spots are cozy (read: small tables). If you prefer more space, aim for outdoor seating or go during off-peak hours.
A Traditional Roman Evening (You’ll Never Forget)
Dinner in Trastevere isn’t rushed.
It’s:
- Wine flowing slowly
- Conversations lingering
- Plates shared and savored
After dinner, wander aimlessly. That’s when the magic happens.
Hidden Gems Near Trastevere (That Tourists Miss)
Testaccio — For Food Lovers
If Trastevere is charming, Testaccio is authentic.
This neighborhood is considered the birthplace of Roman cuisine.
What to do:
- Visit the local market
- Try traditional dishes like oxtail stew
- Explore non-touristy trattorias
Perfect if you want a deeper culinary experience without the crowds.
Garbatella — Colorful & Quiet
This area feels almost like a small village tucked inside Rome.
Expect:
- Unique architecture
- Peaceful courtyards
- A slower pace
Solo traveler tip:
It’s safe, residential, and great for a relaxed afternoon stroll.
Villa Doria Pamphili — Nature Escape
Rome’s largest park—and one of its best-kept secrets.
Perfect for:
- Picnics
- Walking breaks
- Escaping the city heat
Plus-size & comfort tip:
Flat paths and plenty of space make this a great low-pressure exploration option.
Is Trastevere Safe?
Yes—with the same awareness you’d use anywhere.
Tips for staying comfortable:
- Stick to well-lit streets at night
- Keep an eye on your belongings in crowded areas
- Trust your instincts
Many solo female travelers (myself included) find Trastevere welcoming and easy to navigate.
How to Spend a Perfect Day on This Side of Rome
Morning:
- Coffee + pastry in Trastevere
- Visit Basilica di Santa Maria
Afternoon:
- Explore Testaccio for lunch
- Relax in Villa Doria Pamphili
Evening:
- Sunset at Janiculum Hill
- Long dinner in Trastevere
Final Thoughts: Slow Down & Stay Curious
Rome isn’t just about checking landmarks off a list.
On this side of the river, you:
- Wander more
- Discover more
- Feel more connected
It’s where the city becomes less of a destination—and more of an experience.
Coming Up Next on Curves and a Carry-On
- Hidden food spots in Trastevere you need to try
- A full Rome-to-Tuscany day trip guide
- Solo female travel tips for navigating Italy with confidence
Tanti Baci, Amore! Safe travels! XO
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The Perfect 48-Hour Rome Itinerary: A Fun, Flavor-Filled Guide for First-Time Visitors

If you’ve only got two days in Rome, don’t panic! You can still experience la dolce vita in a way that feels magical, meaningful, and (most importantly) doable. This 48-hour Rome itinerary blends iconic sights, hidden gems, incredible food, and inclusive travel tips so you can explore comfortably and confidently.
Whether you’re a solo female traveler, a plus-sized explorer, or simply someone who loves culture and carbs…this guide is for you.
Day 1: Ancient Rome + Iconic Landmarks
Morning: Step Back in Time
Start your Roman adventure at the legendary
ColosseumThere’s nothing quite like seeing it in person—the scale, the history, the gladiator vibes. Book a skip-the-line ticket if possible to conserve energy (trust me, Rome = lots of walking).
Inclusive tip:
- The Colosseum has elevators and accessible routes—great for travelers with mobility needs
- Bring water + snacks (shade is limited and lines can be long)
Next, head over to the
Roman Forum
and
Palatine HillThis is where ancient Rome lived and ruled. Wander at your own pace – no need to rush.
Lunch: Casual + Delicious
Grab a relaxed lunch near Monti (a super cute neighborhood nearby). Look for:
- Fresh pasta (cacio e pepe is a must)
- Supplì (fried rice balls – Rome’s answer to arancini)
- House wine (cheap and amazing)
Plus-size & comfort tip:
Many restaurants have outdoor seating—great if you prefer more space and a relaxed vibe.
Afternoon: Rome’s Greatest Hits
Walk toward the stunning
Trevi FountainYes, it’s crowded – but it’s iconic for a reason. Toss a coin to guarantee your return to Rome (it’s basically a travel ritual at this point).
Next stop:
PantheonIt’s free to enter (check current policies), and the architecture is mind-blowing. That dome? Still the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world.
Evening: Piazza Magic + Dinner
Head to
Piazza NavonaStreet artists, fountains, music—it’s pure Roman atmosphere.
Dinner Ideas:
Look for a cozy trattoria nearby and order:
- Carbonara (Roman classic – no cream!)
- Saltimbocca
- Tiramisu
Solo traveler tip:
Dining alone in Rome is totally normal. Bring a book or journal, or just people-watch.
Day 2: Vatican City + Local Vibes
Morning: Vatican Wonders
Start early at
Vatican MuseumsThis includes the breathtaking
Sistine Chapel
painted by Michelangelo.Then visit
St. Peter’s BasilicaClimb the dome if you’re up for it or admire from below (still incredible).
Accessibility tip:
- Elevators are available for parts of the basilica
- Dress comfortably but respectfully (covered shoulders/knees)
Lunch: Light & Local
Grab something quick like:
- Panini
- Pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice)
- Gelato (yes, it counts as lunch sometimes)
Afternoon: Slow Travel Mode
Take a break from the crowds and enjoy a slower side of Rome.
Walk along the
Tiber River
or relax in a shaded park.If you’re up for exploring, cross over toward
TrastevereThis is where Rome feels local, charming, and a little less polished—in the best way. I’m not a huge Rome fan but this neighborhood won me over!
Cobblestone streets, ivy-covered buildings, and some of the best food in the city.
Stay tuned: I’ll be sharing a full deep-dive guide to Trastevere (including hidden gems and food spots) soon!
Evening: A Traditional Roman Experience
End your trip with a classic Roman dinner in Trastevere.
Look for:
- Family-run trattorias
- Outdoor seating under string lights
- A lively, welcoming atmosphere
Order:
- Amatriciana
- Fried artichokes (Carciofi alla Giudia)
- Local wine
Inclusive note:
Trastevere can have uneven cobblestones – wear supportive shoes and take your time.
Want to Go Beyond Rome?
If you have more time, Rome is the perfect base for unforgettable day trips—think countryside escapes, coastal views, and historic towns.
Coming soon on Curves and a Carry-On:
- Day trips from Rome you cannot miss
- Hidden gems beyond the tourist trail
- Food-focused escapes (because obviously)
Final Tips for Your 48 Hours in Rome
- Wear comfortable walking shoes (non-negotiable)
- Stay hydrated—Rome fountains often have drinkable water
- Book major attractions in advance
- Take breaks—Rome isn’t meant to be rushed
Ready to Fall in Love with Rome?
Rome isn’t just a destination…it’s a feeling. In just 48 hours, you’ll taste history, indulge in unforgettable food, and experience a city that somehow feels both ancient and alive.
And the best part? This is just the beginning.
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Saturnia Hot Springs Italy: The Ultimate Free Tuscany Spa Guide

Saturnia should be on your Italy bucket list!
If you’ve ever dreamed of soaking in warm, mineral-rich waters under the Tuscan sky – for free – then visiting Saturnia might just become your new obsession.
Welcome to one of Italy’s most magical hidden gems: the cascading thermal springs of Cascate del Mulino in the tiny village of Saturnia.
Let’s get into everything you need to know—from how to get there, what to pack, and when to go—so you can plan a dreamy (and slightly steamy) escape.
Picture this: natural limestone pools carved by centuries of flowing thermal water, all glowing a soft milky blue. The water stays around 37.5°C (99°F) year-round and is rich in sulfur and minerals known for skin and health benefits.
And the best part? It’s completely FREE.
Yes, you can live your spa fantasy without dropping a single euro.
How to Get to Saturnia
Saturnia is tucked away in southern Tuscany, which means getting there takes a little effort – but that’s part of the adventure.
From Rome
By Car (Best Option)
- Time: ~2.5–3 hours
- Route: Rome → Civitavecchia → Grosseto → Saturnia
- Renting a car gives you flexibility and makes the trip much easier
By Train + Taxi/Bus
- Take a train from Rome to Grosseto or Orbetello
- From there, you’ll need:
- A local bus (limited schedules), or
- A taxi (more reliable but pricier)
Real talk: This route is doable, but not the easiest. If you can drive, do it.
From Florence
By Car (Highly Recommended)
- Time: ~2.5 hours
- Scenic drive through Tuscany (think rolling hills and vineyards)
By Train + Bus
- Train to Grosseto
- Then bus or taxi to Saturnia
Check out my Florence guide for more info on your trip there, too!
Saturnia Hot Springs Packing Checklist
Here’s what you’ll want to bring to make the most of your soak:
Essentials
- Swimsuit (wear one you don’t LOVE – sulfur smell sticks!)
- Flip flops or water shoes (rocks can be slippery)
- Towel
- Change of clothes
- Hair tie (long hair + sulfur water = tangles)
Nice-to-Haves
- Waterproof phone case
- Small backpack
- Snacks + water (limited nearby options)
- Plastic bag for wet clothes
- Travel-size toiletries (for a quick rinse after)
Optional Extras
- Face mask (hello DIY spa moment)
- Wine or prosecco (very Tuscan of you)
What to Expect When You Get There
The main springs at Cascate del Mulino are natural and open 24/7.
Here’s the vibe:
- Tiered pools with small waterfalls
- Warm, soothing water constantly flowing
- A mix of locals, travelers, and Instagrammers
- Zero spa infrastructure (this is nature, babe!)
There is a nearby café and parking lot, but don’t expect luxury amenities unless you go to a paid thermal spa nearby.
Visiting Saturnia by Season
Each season brings a completely different experience, so choose your vibe wisely.
Spring (March–May)
Best for: Mild weather + fewer crowds
- Lush green landscapes
- Comfortable soaking temps
- Ideal for photos and relaxation
One of the BEST times to go
Summer (June–August)
Best for: Warm nights + social vibes
- Can get VERY crowded during the day
- Water may feel less refreshing in heat
- Go at sunrise or late evening
Night soaking under the stars = chef’s kiss
Fall (September–November)
Best for: Cozy, romantic energy
- Fewer tourists than summer
- Cooler air makes hot water feel amazing
- Gorgeous autumn colors
Another top-tier time to visit
Winter (December–February)
Best for: Magical, steamy atmosphere
- Hot water + cold air = visible steam clouds
- Fewer crowds (except holidays)
- Bring warm layers for after
Feels like a natural outdoor spa dream
Pro Tips for the Best Experience
- Go early (sunrise) or late evening to avoid crowds
- Watch your step—the rocks are slippery
- Don’t expect luxury—this is rustic and natural
- Embrace the smell—the sulfur scent fades, promise
- Keep it clean—this is a protected natural site
Saturnia isn’t just a destination—it’s an experience.
It’s where you slow down, soak in nature, and maybe even romanticize your life a little (because honestly, how could you not?).
Whether you’re road-tripping through Tuscany or planning a dedicated wellness escape, the springs of Saturnia are absolutely worth it.
You can also opt to spend the night nearby, and find a few cool local spots for lunch (and wine!) along the way!
Happy Soaking! XO
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A Beginner’s Guide to Coffee in Italy: What to Order at Bars & Cafés

If you’ve ever stepped into an Italian bar (spoiler: it’s not what Americans think it is), you’ve probably noticed one thing immediately: coffee culture here is fast, intentional, and deeply rooted in tradition.
Ordering coffee in Italy isn’t just about getting caffeine, it’s a ritual. And if you’re new to it, the menu can feel…a little intimidating.
Let’s break it down so you can confidently walk into any Italian café and order like a local.
First Things First: What Is an Italian “Bar”?
In Italy, a bar is typically a café that serves coffee, pastries, and sometimes light sandwiches or aperitivo later in the day. It’s where locals:
- Grab a quick espresso before work
- Catch up with friends
- Take a mid-day break
Most people drink their coffee standing at the counter, not sitting down – especially in the morning.
The Most Common Types of Coffee in Italy
Here’s your cheat sheet to the most popular Italian coffee drinks:
1. Espresso (Caffè)
This is the foundation of all Italian coffee.
- A small, strong shot of coffee
- Ordered simply as “un caffè”
- Drunk quickly – usually in 2–3 sips
👉 If you remember nothing else: “caffè = espresso” in Italy
2. Cappuccino
One of the most misunderstood orders by tourists.
- Espresso + steamed milk + foam
- Creamy and rich
Pro Tip: Only drink cappuccino in the morning (usually before 11 AM).
Ordering one after lunch will instantly mark you as a tourist (and hot milk with/after food just isn’t really that great for you).
3. Caffè Latte
Not the same as a “latte” abroad.
- Espresso + a lot of steamed milk
- Less foam than a cappuccino
Pro Tip: If you just order “latte,” you’ll get a glass of milk.
4. Macchiato
Perfect if you want something between espresso and cappuccino.
- Espresso “stained” with a small amount of milk
- Strong but slightly softened
You can order:
- Caffè macchiato caldo (hot milk)
- Caffè macchiato freddo (cold milk)
5. Caffè Americano
Closest thing to American drip coffee.
- Espresso diluted with hot water
- Milder taste
6. Caffè Corretto
For when you want a little kick.
- Espresso + a splash of liquor (often grappa)
7. Marocchino
A hidden gem you should absolutely try.
- Espresso + cocoa powder + milk foam
- Slightly sweet and indulgent
8. Shakerato (Summer Favorite)
Perfect for warm Italian afternoons.
- Espresso shaken with ice and sugar
- Served cold and frothy
What Italians Typically Order (By Time of Day)
Understanding when to order what is just as important as what you order.
Morning (7 AM – 11 AM)
- Cappuccino + cornetto (Italian croissant, some regions also call it a “brioche” – my fave is a croissant all crema, with a custard cream filling!)
- Or espresso for a quick stop
This is the most common breakfast in Italy.
Midday (11 AM – 3 PM)
- Espresso (caffè)
- Maybe a macchiato
Milk-based drinks are usually avoided after breakfast.
Afternoon & Evening
- Espresso
- Shakerato (in warmer months)
- Caffè corretto after dinner
Italian Coffee Etiquette Tips
- Stand at the bar for a cheaper, quicker experience
- Pay first, then order (in many places)
- Don’t linger too long – coffee is meant to be quick
- No large takeaway cups – coffee is meant to be enjoyed in the moment (some places in larger cities like Florence or Milan will offer your typical iced coffee or iced lattes American style to-go, due to large student or expat population)
How to Order Like a Local
Keep it simple and confident:
- “Un caffè, per favore.”
- “Un cappuccino.”
- “Un macchiato.”
If you’re feeling really confident, make it “Posso avere (Can I have) un cappuccino, per favore…” or “Vorrei (I would like) un caffè, per favore….”
That’s it. No complicated modifications needed.
Italian coffee culture is less about customization and more about tradition, quality, and rhythm. Once you understand the basics, it becomes one of the most enjoyable – and delicious – parts of daily life in Italy.
So next time you walk into a bar, skip the complicated order, stand at the counter, and sip your espresso like you’ve been doing it your whole life.
Pro tip for your travels: Try visiting the same café a few mornings in a row. Don’t be surprised if the barista starts remembering your order—that’s when you know you’re doing Italy right.
Enjoy your caffeine break! XO
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Renting in Italy 101: A Solo Traveler’s Guide to Italian Lease Types + Where to Find Your Dream Apartment

So—you’ve made the decision to move to Italy (congratulations, bella!). Whether you’re coming on a student visa (like me) or plotting your new life under Italy’s shiny digital nomad visa, one of the first big questions you’ll face is: where the heck am I going to live?
Let’s be real—finding an apartment in a new country can feel like speed-dating with landlords. You’re sizing them up, they’re sizing you up, and somewhere between “utilities included” and “furnished or unfurnished,” you have to decide if this is the one.
Good news: I’ve already started untangling the spaghetti bowl of Italian rental contracts so you don’t have to.
The Main Types of Rental Contracts in Italy
Italian leases aren’t one-size-fits-all. Here’s what you’re most likely to run into:
Contratto di Locazione 4+4 (The Long-Term Standard)
This is the “classic” lease. You sign for 4 years, with an automatic renewal for another 4 unless someone breaks up with the contract early.
Great if you’re planting roots and want stability.Usually requires proof of income and, yep, a codice fiscale (Italian tax code).
Contratto Transitorio (The Temporary Sweet Spot)
Typically lasts 1–18 months.
Perfect for expats, students, and nomads who don’t want to be tied down for years.
Often used in cities with lots of international students (Florence, Bologna, Rome).
Contratto per Studenti Universitari (The Student Special)
Tailored for students with a valid student visa.
Runs 6–36 months and usually aligns with the academic calendar.
Bonus: regulated rent, which means you’re less likely to get scammed into paying tourist-level prices.
Co-Living / Short-Term Rental Agreements
Think furnished rooms in shared apartments, managed by agencies or co-living platforms.
Flexible contracts (often 1–12 months).
A favorite for digital nomads who want plug-and-play housing without IKEA runs.
Where to Find Your Italian Home
Now that you know the contract lingo, let’s talk about where to actually find these places. Here are some reputable sources I’ve bookmarked in my own apartment hunt:
General Rental Platforms
Idealista.it – Italy’s most popular property portal. Tons of listings, clear filters, and good photos (usually).
Casa.it – User-friendly and solid for both apartments and houses.
Immobiliare.it – Another big player with lots of long-term options.
Student-Friendly Platforms
HousingAnywhere – Great for student leases, especially in Florence, Milan, and Rome.
Uniplaces – Focused on students and younger expats; contracts often align with school schedules.
Spotahome – Verified listings with videos (so you can avoid the “catfish apartment” situation).
Digital Nomad & Short-Term Options
Airbnb Monthly Rentals – Surprisingly affordable if you filter for long stays.
Nestpick – Aggregates furnished apartments and co-living spaces in major Italian cities.
Coliving.com – Perfect if you want built-in community (and maybe a pasta buddy).
Old-School but Effective
Local Facebook groups (try “Expats in Florence” or “Digital Nomads in Rome”).
University housing boards if you’re a student.
Word of mouth – Italians love connections. Tell everyone from your barista to your language teacher that you’re looking for an apartment—you might be surprised.
A Few Tips from a Solo Female Traveler
Budget for a deposit. Most landlords want 2–3 months upfront plus your first month’s rent.
Double-check if utilities are included. “Spese condominiali” (building fees) can add up.
Ask about registration. Your contract needs to be registered with the Agenzia delle Entrate to be official (and to help with visa renewals).
Safety first. Don’t send money before visiting the apartment (or booking through a verified platform). Scams do exist, unfortunately.
Finding an apartment in Italy is a mix of strategy, patience, and a little dolce vita luck. Whether you’re signing a student contract in Florence, snagging a temporary lease in Bologna, or setting up a co-living spot in Rome, the key is knowing your options and using the right resources.
I’ll be documenting my own hunt as I settle in more, so stay tuned for updates (and maybe a few tales of quirky landlords and Tuscan kitchens) on TikTok and IG!
Until then—happy apartment hunting, future Italian neighbor!

About Me
Born in Portsmouth, Virginia and raised in San Diego, California. I have a passion for exploring the world and seeing all it has to offer. Cultural experiences have shaped me into a person who tries to leave the world feeling a little more love whenever I show up. Come with me, and let’s have the best adventure!
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